I started my transfer by cracking my ball valve 1/2 way. I guess I needed a hose barb? I was not prepared for that. I was forced to use silicone so I couldn't really keep an eye on the clarity of the liquid I was transferring. THE BARB NEEDS A HOSE CLAMP! I've been using 1/2" silicone for years now and didn't have any clear 1/2" hose.Like anything else, I learned a few lessons: Just finished my first batch with my Anvil Fermentor. Maybe even just some extra weight on the lid or some shims under each clasp. Won't be an issue with transferring but, in the future, fermenting under pressure would probably require some mods. The seal on the lid was failing with about as little pressure as I could give it. Side note: while testing how much pressure this piece could handle, I found that my anvil fermenter lid could not handle much at all without relief. I'll be trying it out this weekend but I don't see why I'll have any issues. The barbed fitting fits perfectly into the bung that came with with anvil so I can stick it right in. It leaked a good bit so I put about 10 layers of tape on and it's sealed like a dream for how much pressure it will ever see. The thread fit wasn't perfect but the post grabbed enough of the bottom of the threads to hold tight. What eventually worked was an old valve from a co2 distributer I had. So I took out all my spare parts from over the years and started playing. Then I got home and figured, we don't just home-brew beer, we can home-brew anything. I could have pieced something together but I was already spending enough on what I needed so at around $10 a part I decided I'd wait. Had to go grab ingredients for a brew this weekend and decided I'd look to see if they had any bulkhead/post setups that I could use and they did not. The benefits I've found are that I (1) save some co2 (2) don't have to monitor the pressure in the fermenter that's not rated for pressure (3) simplicity-one less piece to deal with (the co2 tank). Now when you open the valve on the fermenter, the beer will flow into the keg via gravity, and the gas in the keg will flow into the fermenter headspace. What I propose is that you take Kingmatt's setup, but remove the CO2 tank and instead connect that gas line to the gas post on the keg. If you look at Kingmatt's picture, he solves #1 by venting the keg, and #2 by sending CO2 from the tank into the fermenter headspace. Second, as the beer leaves the fermenter, air fills the headspace, potentially oxidizing the beer. First, assuming you've purged the serving keg with co2, you've got positive pressure in there and the beer won't flow. If you're transferring from a fermenter with a spigot, you can attach a hose from the spigot to the liquid out post. I actually don't use an airlock but instead a carbcap that's jammed into a stopper, but its all the same. No, the gas post is connected to a tube that is connected to the airlock attached to the fermenter.
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